Adromischus belongs to a genus of flowering plants. They are easy propagated leaf succulents from the family Crassulaceae, which are endemic to southern Africa. The name originates from the ancient Greek adros (= thick) and mischos (= stem).
Adromischus species are divided into 5 parts based upon their shared qualities and relationships:
Part 1 (Adromischus).
Flowers of part 1. species (Adromischus filicaulis).
Flowers are brilliant green, tubular, and with short, broad, triangular, recurved lobes. Anthers extend from the flower tube. Mainly indigenous to the western, winter-rainfall areas of South Africa. They are:
- Adromischus alstonii.
- Adromischus hemisphaericus.
- Adromischus roaneanus.
- Adromischus liebenbergii.
- Adromischus bicolor.
- Adromischus filicaulis – Adromischus filicaulis subsp. marlothii.
- Adromischus montium – klinghardtii.
- Adromischus subdistichus.
Part 2 (Boreali)
Grooved, tubular flowers, with ovate-triangular, recurved lobes that are swollen on the margins. Anthers extend from the flower tubes. Native to the dry, summer-rainfall interior of Southern Africa. They are:
Part 3 (Brevipedunculati).
Grooved, funnel-shaped flowers with acuminate-triangular, spreading lobes widely, born upon long stalks. Inflorescence branched. Generally spreading out or stoloniferous plants. They consist of:
- Adromischus caryophyllaceus.
- Adromischus fallax.
- Adromischus humilis.
- Adromischus phillipsiae.
- Adromischus nanus.
- Adromischus diabolicus.
Part 4 (Incisilobati)
Flowers of part 4 species (Adromischus triflorus).
Tubular flowers with extended lanceolate-triangular lobes. Plants with compact, upright, short stems. They are:
- Adromischus maximus.
- Adromischus sphenophyllus.
- Adromischus maculatus.
- Adromischus inamoenus.
- Adromischus triflorus.
- Adromischus mammilaris.
- Adromischus halesowensis.
Part 5 (Longipedunculati)
Flowers of part 5 species (Adromischus marianae).
Pale or pubescent inflorescence with lengthened lanceolate-triangular lobes. They consist of:
- Adromischus cooperi.
- Adromischus cristatus.
- Adromischus cristatus clavifolius.
- Adromischus cristatus mzimvubuensis.
- Adromischus cristatus schonlandii.
- Adromischus cristatus zeyheri.
- Adromischus leucophyllus.
- Adromischus marianae.
- Adromischus marianae immaculatus.
- Adromischus marianae herrei.
So-called Adromischus oviforme specimens, which do not in fact exist, are typically Adromischus filicaulis subsp. Marlothii.
Caring and Growing Adromischus
A popular little plant, preferably fit for pot culture SO has appeal amongst collectors and lovers most are simple to grow however most of the beauties can really be challenging.
A lot of succulents lovers will have by now come across “The Plovers Egg Plant”. Adromischus cooperi appears great, the leaves have charming marks and are extremely different from other succulents. They can be easily grown & propagated, and an excellent beginner’s plant.
To a more recent succulent collectors, this plant is perfectly unique and different from other succulents. My first likewise was Adromischus cooperi. After then, I met and was able to know Alec Salzer, a senior and longtime collector, unfortunately, he had died now.
He had more than 40 different types and subspecies. I believe owing to a number of journeys to South Africa and returning with big pockets totally filled with various leaves and cuttings.
Till today, I can say no other collection had such a variety as Alec’s had in his three little confined glasshouses in a little yard in Camberwell.
Who knows maybe the collection of Alec’s Adromischus was passed down to someone? But now vanished into somebody’s collection & later lost to the public. Let me share a thought, which I believe is very important, with you.
If you have some uncommon types or a typical or fascinating version of unique plants, share it immediately with an individual who has the capability to grow and reproduce that unique plant.
People who wish to hide and become the only person with that unique something are a bit self-centered and short-sighted. With just one disaster, maybe a hot day in the polyhouse without any shade or maybe a flood or an even unfortunate rot to get your one & only treasure while you’re not looking.
I had an experience like this when a once in a 100-year flood 200 ml of rain in just about 20 hours saw me lose a poly home to water of about 50 cm, they were busy floating out the door. That day, I lost a couple of special plants and a big part of my entire crop.
Fortunately, 6 months after, I recovered many of the unique plants back thanks to a friend I had previously shared those plants with.
Adromischus are delightful succulents that have actually held my attention for a very long time due to the fact that they are extremely difficult to find. An expert collection of this plant with their numerous and leafy forms, colors, textures, and spots are really gratifying when seen over a yearly cycle.
They are a perfect source of wonders and beauties, in some cases difficult. Their sizes are ideal for pot culture, they do effectively in a well-lit glasshouse window sill where there is a lot of light.
How to grow Adromischus
Adromischus are really simple to propagate. As is common in the majority of the plant groups. Although, there are few exceptions, as nature has never been straightforward. They will quickly grow from leaf, though those excellent lookers and the rare ones are probably the slowest to develop just acquiring two or three brand-new leaves annually.
These can likewise be the fussiest to grow, as if we didn’t understand this, they will likely be the hardest to get the most costly, and hardest to develop. So, you can see a plant that might just grow a couple of leaves in a year can never ever be readily available, common, or very cheap. They are simply too difficult and too slow to reproduce.
I presently have roughly 30 trays of mother plants to gather my leaf cuttings from. So, it is quite a location of the glasshouse to take up and preserve.
Adromishus requires to be well-drained since they are not a fussy plant, garden compost or sand mix of about 30% to 50% then include course river sand about 3ml or pumice or scoria to open up your mix. The usage of peat moss and perlite will also do. The fat rooted or codex design of plants such as marianiae will favor 50% to 70% course product in the mix.
Adromischus can grow in all types of soil from shale to granite quartz and sandstone primarily on rock ledges or crevices under bushes or the shade of a rock.
Lighting and ventilation requirements for Adromischus
Excellent light is important to get vibrant and beautiful colors and spots to appear well, the silvery ones will be brighter silver and with good light. If Adromischus remain in a too shady area, they do appear to have a typical dull green appearance.
In my state here, the Adromischus are at the North facing with bright entryway where perfect ventilation is.
In the wild, many of them begin life inside a rock crevice where windblown seed might catch a hold. As the plants grow to be over these crevices many of them are seen sitting happily in the brilliant sun. Others remain in partial shade under little shrubs or trees or the shadow of rocks.
Some just exist on the south side of hills where they are not too much exposed having an afternoon partial shade (Southern hemisphere). You’ll need to find out the tolerances a little by putting them in various locations of your house.
When you have humid seasons such as Melbourne in the winter season or Sydney in Summertime, additional ventilation at these times is a huge aid in decreasing prospective rots. I have actually set up fans in my homes and had really few losses since I did this.
I also realize that Adromischus start growing in the late winter season so provide water however keep it lightly do on brilliant warm days so the excess vaporizes off. A fan helps this.
Adromischus Watering Requirements.
Here, a little understanding of where they originate from helps, these plants grow over a huge variety from Southern Namibia to west cape South Africa then all the way to East Cape then North to Free State location.
This variety covers a number of environmental zones that have winter season rain and summer season dry to summertime rain and winter season dry.
Essentially, I have actually discovered very little water in the winter season is finest with simply a couple of watering with the hose pipe over the winter season. When Spring shows up increase and water a little much deeper.
What I feel is necessary is the plant should dry in between waterings. Adromischus will inform you when they are feeling thirsty because their leaves will begin to shrivel and then they will shed the shriveled leaves so as to survive.
Dried-out plants or as we say “stressed” will start to display better colors than well, watered plants. So, put good light and with a little dryness, you can achieve the colors these plants were designed within nature.
Towards completion of the summer season start to reduce the watering a bit to permit the plants to shrink a bit and lose some of their older leaves over the Fall periods prior to when winter season sets in.
I have also discovered that if the leaves are filled with water, a few of those older leaves that might have shed over the summer season keep their water into the winter season sort of pass away off filled with water which can then start a rot in your plants.
Another technique to understand about wetting the plant is that when the flower buds begin to appear, this is usually the prime season when plants wish to grow & reproduce. This is primarily carried out in the optimal season. It’s a terrific indicator of when to water more.
Adromischus potting and repotting
It’s the little sluggish growing plants and can remain longer in their initial pots and soil mix for a number of years. This is when it can take numerous years before a plant reveals some character and shape, then you might need to move it up a size.
If it’s among the cordex types, a bigger pot is needed for some excellent root advancement. Whereas a few of the energetic smaller-sized shrub types with a better fibrous root system might be repotted yearly into either the same pot or simply some fresh soil mix and light trim.
These charming plants always make terrific Bonsai specimens in time getting an older weathered and knotted look, like aged desert specimens that have actually seen lots of tough summer seasons.
The best time to repot is when they begin their new Spring development and once again in Fall permitting them time to settle in prior to the winter season. If you can be careful and not disturb the roots too much, potting can be done most of the year. Root damage throughout the winter season can trigger rots after repotting, particularly the cordex types which appear to be a bit pickier.
If you want your plants to be compact with great color a good percentage of food is all that’s required with possibly a light yearly top-dress in Spring or a light liquid feed for older potted plants. This is especially so with the little and sluggish growing types.
Many of the energetic and much faster-growing types can take as much feed and water as they like, just like other succulents. Few of my older plants that haven’t be fed or potted on for a couple of years start to look a bit thin of leaf and a bit branchy and wispy.
In our nursery, we utilize a 6-month slow-release fertilizer with micronutrients. A good amount of Dolomite lime and a small amount of nitrogen fertilizer (soft slow-release). We utilize this mix on all our succulents in the nursery in varying amounts to match our various groups of plants.
Let’s take for example, a 140mm pot would get up to a 1/4 of a teaspoon or less depending on the plant Smaller pots, of course, get less again, I feel sometimes as were making pots we almost seem to wave the fertilizer over the pots you can barely see it.
Nurseries are more likely to fertilize a bit much heavier than the house collector after all we need to produce a crop of succulent for the lots of succulent appreciates out there.
Adromischus pest and diseases
The plants suffer from the typical suspects that many succulent growers understand, Individuals nowadays are attempting less hazardous chemicals to make their plants clean. In our nursery, a situation like this does not work. Some chemicals have been banned or about to be over the years.
The most current restriction of chemicals is Bunnings, stopping the sale of Confidor as it is understood to affect bees which are important to life in this world. The truth is, it does impact bees, they gather chemical impacted pollen, take it back to their hives where it has an extremely ill result on their breeding.
If you have flowers that hold this systemic toxin and eliminate it, the bees will not visit your plants so for that reason it can’t affect them.
The natural method having Neem. Recently I had an encounter with Neem, it’s a plant product, produced generally in India, you can purchase the oil and see it as a spray or you can purchase the Neem garden compost, when this is utilized as a top dressing or in the soil mix, it appears to drive away bugs making the plant unattractive to them for a while. A re-dose is surely needed.
Diatomite powder placed used with a dust applicator is another approach, this great dust is so sharp and abrasive that it harms the bugs as they move over your plants. This deals with Aphids, Mealybugs, and fungus Gnats, We have actually utilized this very well with different results.
If you have a small collection and you also have the vision and patience, a set if tweezers or a bamboo food or meat skewer with the pointy end torn or chewed is perfect for selecting these bugs and their egg deposits off your plants.
We are inclined in the nursery scenario to perform preventative spraying. In Victoria, Mealybugs seem to appear in late August or early September, so we spray two times at this period which appears to keep this issue resolved.
A double spray with an interval of 10 or 14 days will capture eggs that hatch after the first spray prior to them sexually mature and grow to lay more eggs. We constantly keep a little sprayer handy in case we see a bit of the fluffy white things appear in between sprayings.
The majority of the insect issues appear to vanish over the severest part of summertime. As it begins to cool again, we perform another two complete sprays over the nursery. The majority of you will know that these bugs are more drawn into particular plants, watch on these ones for more infestation
Aphids do not appear to cause much of an issue on our succulents particularly if they’re kept dry a bit. Occasional groups can be seen gathering on the more lush flower heads of our succulent plants these can be handled with soapy water pyrethium or just general insecticides we have sometimes just removed the flower heads which has solved the problem.
Another rather perilous pest which I notice is ending up being more widespread and has actually remained in the Monbulk location for a long time is the Vine Weevil, this is a little dark long-legged horrible looking beetle that is hardly 5 mm long, with a long snout. Have you seen any scalloped edged succulents in the garden? I have actually seen big Aeoniums Each Black Prince with terribly eaten and scalloped leaves.
These beetles are seen on the plants in the evening and hide close to the ground in the leaf litter during the day. Keep the base of your plants clean and clean, and look under your pots for hiding insects if you see the tell-tale eaten leaves.
The real issue with this weevil is it lays eggs all day, when they hatch the larvae head to the root o0f your succulents and eat them all. And then continue to eat the internal stems of your succulents leaving a core of sawdust behind, and within a short time, the plant falls off due to the loss of stem strength or the plant die outrightly.
It’s almost impossible to get these larvae, however, cutting back your plants, then remove the affected area and re-root them and dispose of the trimmings and the old soils.